
"
Ahh photographe ! were the words I remember vividly followed by the most wonderful belly laugh.
It was the summer of 2003 and I was staying with my wife on the island of KOS Greece.
We had decided to take a boat trip tour which included a visit to the nearby island of Nisyros.
We were picked up from our hotel and traveled to the harbor in Karedamena to board our boat for the trip.
On arrival, we were told the boat was going to be delayed departing due to a mechanical issue. To be honest I wasn’t too concerned as I knew the harsh summer light would only get better the later the trip went on into the day.
Later than expected we arrived at Nisyros and stopped at several places on the trip. The unique highlight of the trip was visiting the Stefanos crater. Here we walked on the surface of the volcano which is still steaming but no longer erupting since the last explosion in 1888. I must admit I still felt a little uneasy here but it was definitely a unique experience and the closest I’ll get to walking on the moon!
Our last visit of the day was the mostly abandoned village of Emporeios located on the rim of Stephanos. The village was destroyed by a big earthquake in 1933 and many of the villagers immigrated to other islands and left and made new lives in other countries.
By this time our delayed start to the trip was paying off with some wonderful late warm afternoon light. Our guide painted a wonderful picture of village history here as we navigated the ruined dusty streets in the warm afternoon sunlight.
A few people still lived here and now and again we came across several habited homes and the obligatory group of Greek cats laying in the dusty shade of broken walls of the buildings.
With so much to explore of interest, I fell behind the main tour group as I constantly stopped to capture yet another image.
I eventually ran out of film and had to stop to load another roll and I’m glad I did. As I finished loading the film I heard our guide shouting my name trying to find me, he knew I was a photographer and he had come across a wonderful scene ahead he knew was a gem.
I rushed over the uneven ground to where he was calling me to see two goats at the entrance of a narrow rustic side street looking inquisitively at our small tour group. In the distance behind was a grey-haired woman with slightly wild hair who sat on her doorstep in a warm shaft of late afternoon sunlight.

It was a unique timeless scene, a slice of life in this unique place and I managed to quickly capture several frames before the goats lost interest and the moment was gone. I was left elated by what I had experienced and captured.
Our guide told me the woman lived here alone at the edge of the dormant volcano with no electricity and just her small herd of goats for company. The biggest revelation though was that she was blind!
I had so many questions in my head that I wanted to know about this woman and her life but all I could do was get ready to head back with the group to our waiting boat.
However, I decided to quickly get a little closer to take a few more frames down the narrow street and as I finished shooting the woman spoke out in the distance ...Ahh photographe ! followed by the most wonderful belly laugh.
She obviously heard the clunk of the camera mirror, I said thank you and walked away feeling slightly embarrassed that I may have been a little intrusive in my enthusiasm to capture one more image. I re-joined the group feeling euphoric at what I had experienced and captured.
I still wonder how she managed her life, how did she come to live there, and why she still stayed after everyone else had left.
I’ll never forget that brief almost biblical scene and the experience of visiting Emporeios.
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